The Paine Grande to Refugio Grey hike is one of the most scenic sections of the W Trek in Torres del Paine National Park. The trail takes you through open Patagonian landscapes before rewarding you with increasingly impressive views of Grey Glacier and the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.
If you hike the W Trek from west to east, this is your first day on the trail. It is also a relatively manageable introduction to the trek, although the strong Patagonian winds and changeable weather can make the hike more challenging than the distance suggests.
In this guide, I’ll share everything you need to know about hiking from Paine Grande to Refugio Grey, including the trail distance, difficulty, what to expect along the way and whether it is worth continuing to the famous suspension bridges.
For us, this was the perfect way to begin the W Trek. We loved the changing scenery and was the perfect introduction to our first multi-day hike. The distance between Paine Grande and Refugio Grey is not too demanding and is the perfect way to warm up and prepare for the incredible scenery and experience ahead of you. In addition, hiking the W Trek West to East, means that you will finish your adventure with the iconic hike to Base Torres!
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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GREY GLACIER
Grey Glacier is one of the most impressive sights in Torres del Paine National Park and one of the main highlights of the Paine Grande to Refugio Grey hike. The glacier is part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest extensions of ice in the world outside Antarctica and Greendland.
The Southern Patagonial Ice Field covers a vast area of Chilean and Argentine Patagonia and feeds dozens of glaciers. Grey Glacier flows down from this enormous ice field into Lago Grey, where large pieces of ice break away from the glacier and float across the lake as icebergs.
What makes this part of the W Trek particularly special is that you don’t have to wait until you reach Refugio Grey to see the glacier. As you hike from the Paine Grande to Grey, the views gradually start to open up, giving you your first glimpse of the huge mass of ice surrounded by mountains. For us, seeing Grey Glacier for the first time was one of those moments that made us stop walking and simply take in the landscape. We had already seen a few glaciers on previous trips, but this one was still incredibly memorable!
Grey Glacier is around 30 metres high where its ice front meets the lake, although most of the glacier’s ice lies below the water. Like many glaciers in Patagonia, Grey Glacier has changed significantly over recent decades and has been retreating, leaving behind a landscape that continues to evolve.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE HIKE
HOW TO GET TO PAINGE GRANDE?
Althought the Paine Grande to Refugio Grey hike is relatively short, getting to the trailhead takes much longer than you might expect. You need to travel to Torres del Paine National Park, travel through the park to reach Pudeto, and then take a boat across Lago Pehoé to Paine Grande. In total, you will use almost half a day to reach the starting point of the hike.
There are several steps involved, so it is important to plan your journey in advance, especially if you are hiking the W Trek and need to arrive at Refugio Grey on the same day.
Getting to Torre del Paine National Park
You can reach Torres del Paine National Park either by private car or by bus from Puerto Natales.
If you have a rental car, you can drive directly towards the park. This gives you more flexiblity and allows you to stop along the way to enjoy some of the scenery.
Alternatively, you can take one of the buses connecting Puerto Natales with Torres del Paine. This is what we did and was relatively easy. We booked our bus with the company Bus Sur through the Bus Bud App.
The Ranger Check at Laguna Amarga
You will enter the park via Laguna Amarga entrance and before continuing, the park rangers will check that you have your entrance tickets to the National Park.
Important: It is no longer possible to buy the park tickets here, so make sure to buy them online in advance through the official booking platform managed by CONAF, the government agency responsible for Chile’s national parks. When buying your ticket, you will need to buy a multi-day pass and select the number of days you plan to spend inside the park.
The ranger also explain the main park rules and important things you need to know before entering Torres del Paine. Pay attention to this information, as these rules are important for helping preserve the park.
Continue to Pudeto Pier
After the check at Laguna Amarga, the journey continues towards Pudeto, where you will catch the catamaran to Paine Grande.
If you’re traveling by bus, be prepared for the possibility of changing buses. When we visited, there were a few buses running with 10 minutes difference. To make it more efficient, they grouped all the passengers continuing to Pudeto into one bus. If this is the case, they will ask you to get off the bus and get on the next one that arrives. Just make sure to have your bus tickets at hand because you will have to show them again to the second bus driver.
Once the bus is full, you will continue your journey to Pudeto.
Boat Ride to Paine Grande
The final part of the journey is the boat ride across Lago Pehoé to Paine Grande. The crossing takes between 30 and 40 minutes and is a beautiful introduction to the landscapes of Torres del Paine. If you have a clear day, you will be able to see Cuernos peaks and even the famous Torres del Paine!
Tip: I recommend buying your boat tickets online in advance, especially if you are travelling during the busy season. This not only gives you peace of mind, but also gives you a better chance of choosing the best spot for views and photos. We sat on the right hand part of the boat and got amazing views of the most famous peaks in the park! 
When boarding the boat, you will be asked to leave your backpack on the bottom deck. This is mandatory and ensures that everyone has enough space on the upper deck to enjoy the views.
Once you arrive at Paine Grande, collect your backpack and get ready to start the hike!
WHAT EQUIPMENT DO YOU NEED TO HIKE BETWEEN PAINE GRANDE AND REFUGIO GREY?
One of the most important things to consider before starting the W Trek is that everything you bring is something you will have to carry for the next five days. Keeping your back pack as light as possible is essential.
My advice is to bring only what you really need and leave anything unnecessary behind.
For the hike itself, you should be prepared for changing weather conditions. Patagonia is known for its strong winds, rain and rapidly changing weather, sometimes all on the same day!
I recommend bringing:
- Layers. A moisture-wicking base layer and a warm mid-layer will allow you to adjust to changing temperatures.
- Hiking shoes or boots. Choose comfortable footwear with a good grip and something you have already used!
- A windproof layer and rain gear.
- A buff. This is particularly useful for protecting your face and neck from the wind.
- Sunglasses. Even on colder days, the sun can be surprisingly strong.
- Trekking poles. These are not essential for everyone, but for me they are!
- Water and snacks.
TIPS FOR HIKING BETWEEN PAINE GRANDE AND REFUGIO GREY
Here are a few things I would recommend keeping in mind before hiking from Paine Grande to Refugio Grey.
- Book everything well in advance. The W Trek is exremely popular, and accommodation can sell out months ahead, especially during the high season.
- Travel during the summer months. The best time to hike the W Trek is generally between November and Marc, when the weather is milder and the days are longer. We hiked between the end of January and the beginning of February and were extremely lucky with the weather.
- Check the catamaran schedule carefully. Getting to Paine Grande takes time, and the boat timetable will determinwhen you can start your hike. Plan your journey in advance and make sure you allow enough time to reach Refugio Grey.
- Be prepared for strong winds. Even if the weather looks good, the wind is no joke in Torres del Paine. You will be thankfull to have a windbreaker!
- Don’t underestimate the day. The hiking distance is relatively short, but you will already have spent several hours traveling to reach the trailhead. You will also be carrying a heavier than usual backpack, so don’t rush through the hike.
- Carry enough food and water for the day.
- Take your time and enjoy the views!
PAINE GRANDE TO REFUGIO GREY HIKE
HIKE STATS
Trail Start/End – Hike begins at Refugio Paine Grande and ends at Refugio Grey
Distance – 11,4 km
Elevation Gain – 350 m
Level – Moderate
Route Type – Point to Point
Estimated Time Needed – Between 4 to 5 hours (including plenty of time to stop for photos and enjoy the views)
Best Time To Visit – December to February to ensure the best weather conditions.
HIKE MAP
I always use the AllTrails App during my hikes. The app has a GPX map that can help you stay on the right trail during your hikes. For this hike, we followed the Torres del Paine W Circuit: Paine Grande to Grey Glacier trail.
This trail makes the hike as an out & back trail from Paine Grande. Some people opt for this option, but personally I don’t recommend it.
MY EXPERIENCE HIKING BETWEEN PAINE GRANDE AND REFUGIO GREY - STEP BY STEP GUIDE
The hike from Paine Grande to Refugio Grey is relatively straightforward, but the landscape changes quite a lot along the way.
Leaving Paine Grande
The trail starts directly from the Paine Grande, so once you collect your backpack and get off the cataraman, you can begin the hike almost immediately.
Before leaving Paine Grande, we stopped to check a map showing Torres del Paine National Park and all the possible trails you can do, including the W Trek and the O Trek.
The first section of the hike takes you away from Lago Pehoé and gradually uphill through open terrain. You will see many burned tree trunks from the big 2011 fire along this section of the trail. As you gain altitude, remember to turn around a few times to enjoy the views of Lago Pehoé in the distance.
The trail is easy to follow, and there are signs pinting towards Refugio Grey.
Reaching Laguna de los Patos
After the initial climb, you will reach Laguna de los Patos, a small lake surrounded by hills and vegetation.
The landscape here feels quite different from Paine Grande, and you will get your first taste of the famous Patagonian wind. Althought, trust me, this is nothing compared to what we experienced later at Mirado Grey!
Laguna de los Patos makes a perfect stop for a break. We decidede to have lunch here as we had been up since 6:45 that morning.
From Laguna de los Patos, the trail continues with a mix of uphill and downhill sections. They are not particulary complicated and the trail switches between exposed areas next to the lake and forest sections.
At some point, you will reach Lake Grey (Lago Grey) and start walking alongside it. If you look carefully at the lake, you might already spot your first icebergs floating in the water.
You are now heading towards one of the most exciting parts of the hike; your first view of Grey Glacier!
Mirador Grey and the First View of Grey Glacier
After one last uphill, you will reach the highlight of this hike: Mirador Grey! This where you get your first proper view of Grey Glacier. The viewpoint looks over Lago Grey, with the glacier sitting at the far end of the lake and the mountains rising around it. From this viewpoint, you can see the two different outlets of the glacier.
We stopped here for a while to take in the view and, of course, plenty of photos. Not even the super strong wind was able to stop us! It was difficult to stand straight with that much wind but is was such an impressive view of the glacier!
Hiking next to Lago Grey
After Mirador Grey, the trail continues north alongside Lago Grey, with a mix of uphill and donwhill sections. As you get closer to the glacier, you will eventually lose sight of both glacier outlets and only see the right-hand side of the glacier.
This section is particularly scenic because you continue to get views of Lake Grey and the surrounding mountains as you hike. Make sure to look back from time to time as the views behind you can be just as impressive.
The final section to Refugio Grey
During the final part of the hike, you will enter a forested area and lose sight of the lake and glacier. You won’t see them again until you reach Refugio Grey.
This is probably the most challenging part of the trail, although it is not particularly difficult. There is one steep and slippery downhill section where you need to be careful, especially if the trail is wet.
As you walk throught the forest you will see a large waterfall on your right, falling from one of the mountain peaks. This fall is created by the Olguín River, which you will later have to cross.
This part of the hike is less impressive than the previous sections, but eventually, Refugio Grey will appear in the distance. From here it is only a short walk until you reach the refugio.
Arriving and Check-In at Refguio Grey
Once you arrive at Refugio Grey, you will need to check in at reception. This is mandatory, even if you are bringing your own tent to camp since you can’t just place your tent wherever you want. Make sure to have the immigration document you received when entering Chile, as they will ask for it during check-in.
If like us, you rented and a tent and sleeping bags, and booked full board services, at check-in they will assign you your tent, give you your sleeping bag and your meal bouchers (one for each meal: dinner, breakfast and lunch bag). Once you’re checked in, you can finally leave your backpack, take a shower (yes, there are warm showers available at the refugio 
) and rest before dinner.
If you still have some energy, you can also continue hiking a bit further towards Grey Beach, where you will find a viewpoint with a closer look to the glacier. We decided to rest instead and visit this viewpoint the following day. After traveling for several hours and hiking to Refugio Grey, we were more than ready for a shower and some rest!
ACCOMMODATION AT REFUGIO GREY
After hiking from Paine Grande, you will be happy to arrive at Refugio Grey. It is located in a spectacular setting, right next to Lago Grey and surrounded by the mountains of Torres del Paine. The refugio offers both dormitory accommodation and camping options.
STAYING AT REFUGIO GREY
The accommodation is fairly basic, as you would expect from a mountain refugio, but it has everything you need after a day of hiking. The rooms are shared, and you will sleep in bunk beds with other hikers completing the W Trek.
CAMPING AT REFUGIO GREY
For camping, you can either bring your own camping equipment or rent a tent and sleeping bag. If you choose to stay at the refugio or rent camping equipment, you will need to book well in advance. I explain how this works in my blog “Planning the W Trek on your own“.
READ MORE: How to plan the W Trek on your own?
In our case, we rented a tent and a sleeping bag. After checking in, we were take to our tent, where we could finally leave our backpacks and rest.
Surprisingly, the tent was really comfortable!
FOOD AT REFUGIO GREY
If you are stayingat the refugio or camping, you can book meals as part of your accommodation package. This is a convenient option if you don’t want to carry all your food for five days.
Dinner is served at the refugio, and breakfast is available there the following morning as well. During check-in, you will have to choose when you want to have your meals. For dinner you could choose between 18:00, 19:00 and 20:00 and breakfast was either at 7:00 or 8:00.
The food at Refugio Grey was basic but good. It is served buffet-style, and you can have as much food as you want except for protein which you could only have one serving.
Alternatively, if you don’t have a meal plan included in your reservation, there is a small shop with some dried food and snacks where you can get something to eat. However, the prices are quite high given the remote location.
FACILITIES AT REFUGIO GREY
The refugio has shared bathrooms and showers with warm water, which are a welcome sight after a hike. Despite them being shared, the staff at the refugio made sure they were kept quite clean. The facilities are basic, but they are more than enough for a night in the middle of Torres del Paine.
There is also electricity in the refugio, where you can charge your phone. However, you should expect to wait a bit for a spot to become available. If you have multiple electronic devices, I recommend bringing a power bank. As for internet connection, there are some totems, were you can buy access to the wifi for a specific amount of time. But part of the beauty of this hike is the fact that you are completely offline for 5 days. It was actually quite nice for a change!
Finally, the refugio has several common areas where you can relax and spend some time with other hikers. The atmosphere is very much that oa fa mountain refuge, with people arriving throughout the afternoon, having dinner and preparing for the next day of the W Trek.
Just remember one thing: you are staying in a remote mountain location. Don’t expect the same facilities or comfort you would get in a regular hotel. Part of the experience is simply enjoying being surrounded by the incredible landscape of Torres del Paine.
EXTENSION TO THE GREY GLACIER SUSPENSION BRIDGES
If you still have some energy after reaching Refugio Grey, you can extend your hike towards the Grey Glacier suspension bridges. This is not part of the W Trek. The suspension bridges are actually part of the O Circuit, so you will need to continue beyond the refugio.
If you decide to do this extension, you will continue north and start gaining altitude. As you climb, you will get amazing views of Lago Grey and Grey Glacier.
However, you should keep in mind that reaching the suspension bridges takes quite a bit of additional time, around 2 to 3 hours depending on your pace. Don’t underestimate this section!
OUR EXPERIENCE
When we arrived at the refugio, we still had enough time to continue towards the suspension bridges. However, since Day of the W Trek was taking us back to Paine Grande, we decided to leave this for the following day. This meant there was something new to look forward to on our second day.
If you are staying overnight at Refugio Grey, I would consider doing the same if your schedule allows it. The suspension bridges are amazing and allow you to get much closer to the glacier!
In fact, if, like us, you prefer to hike at a relaxed and slower pace, I would even recommend booking a second night at Refugio Grey. This gives you enough time to reach all three suspension bridges without rushing.
We only reached the first two and would have loved to have an extra day to fully enjoy this part of Torres del Paine National Park.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
HOW LONG IS THE PAINE GRANDE TO REFUGIO GREY HIKE?
The hike is around 11 km long and takes approximately 3.5 to 4 hours. Your hiking time will depend on your pace and how often you stop to enjoy the views.
IS THE PAINE GRANDE TO REFUGIO GREY HIKE DIFFICULT?
The hike is considered moderate and is not particularly difficult. There are some uphill and downhill sections, but there ar no technical parts. The strong Patagonian wind can make the hike more challenging.
CAN YOU HIKE FROM PAINE GRANDE TO REFUGIO GREY AND BACK IN ONE DAY?
Yes, technically you can and some people do so. However, remember that you will already have spent several hours traveling to Paine Grande by bus and catamaran before you start hiking. In addition, if you do so, you will not be able to hike to the suspension bridges.
CAN YOU SEE GREY GLACIER FROM THE TRAIL?
Yes. You will get your first proper views of Grey Glacier from Mirador Grey. You will also have views of the glacier and Lago Grey along several sections of the trail.
DO YOU NEED TO BOOK REFUGIO GREY IN ADVANCE?
Yes. Accommodation at Refugio Grey can sell out well in advance, particularly during January and February. If you are planning to hike the W Trek, I recommend booking your accommodation as early as possible.
FINAL THOUGHTS
The Paine Grande to Refugio Grey hike was a fantastic way to start our W Trek. The trail is not particularly difficult, but the scenery is incredible from the moment you leave Paine Grande.
What I liked most about this hike was how the landscape kept changing. You start with views of Lago Pehoé, then make your way through the hills and forest before reaching Lago Grey and getting your first views of Grey Glacier. The closer you get to the refugio, the more impressive the landscape becomes.
Overall, this section of the W Trek was simply memorable.
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